Masada's Message

-
It’s a mountain that rises in splendid isolation from the Judean Desert.
And it unfolds a saga that though true, belongs as much to folklore as to history books. For tourists today it is just another site, but it is also a symbol of sacrifice for an entire nation.
Having a tour guide like Avihai Tsabari had several advantages, not the least of which was his desire to share information in advance with everyone around. Yet he’d chosen to stay quiet on this one, which had got me thinking.
It was bright and sunny the day we dropped by.
Located on the western shores of the Dead Sea, the lowest and among the most desolate regions on earth, Masada not only features stark natural beauty, but is also the site of one of history’s most dramatic moments. Nineteen centuries ago on this gaunt plateau, a group of freedom fighters pitted against the might of ancient Rome decided to kill themselves rather than surrender.
It was a dramatic last stand. The summit had been fortified by King Herod the Great during the 1st Century BC, who built a wall around the rock’s perimeter, defense towers, storehouses, water cisterns, barracks and a magnificent palace. For Herod, Masada was a personal citadel and place of refuge from rebellion and from his enemy Cleopatra, who had designs on extending her kingdom to Judea. Masada was held by a small group of Jews.
For two years they controlled the fort unchallenged. Then, in 72 CE, the Roman Governor Flavius Silva moved up the 15,000-strong Tenth Legion, which camped at the foot of the mountain stronghold and besieged the defending force.
Realising that the end was near, 960 men, women and children, led by their leader Eleazar ben Ya’ir, killed themselves. The men embraced their wives and children and put them to the sword, then lots were cast and ten men chosen to kill their comrades. Finally, the last survivor set fire to the palace and fell upon his own blade. They had left untouched abundant food and water supplies to tell the Romans they preferred death to enslavement.
Masada has become a symbol of the determination of a people to be free in their own land. After two thousand years, the sacrifice of Eleazar Ya’ir and his comrades is part of Jewish history.
Once on top of the mountain, the tour route begins close to the Snake Path gate, and it is advisable to follow the white arrow signs. From here one can proceed to the eastern casemate wall, where rolling stones prepared by the warriors to defend the snake path, and a parchment manuscript with the text of Psalms, was found. It was now ‘photograph time’. The Snake Path Lookout Point provides a view of the Roman camps; the siege-wall; the Dead Sea; and the Moab Mountains. Westwards lie the Storehouses.
We followed the arrows to the large Bathhouse-decorated with mosaics, coloured stone tiles and frescoes-that was part of the Northern Palace. Built in Roman style, it included a courtyard surrounded by pillars which served as a gymnasium; dressing room (apodyterium); a cold room(frigidarium); a lukewarm room(tepidarium); and a hot room(caldarium) with its double floor forming the space(hypocaust) through which hot air flowed.
From here, we continued to the Northern Palace, one of the most significant of Herod’s buildings. Built upon three layers, the palace served as a reception area for special guests and for the king’s privacy. Guardrooms; bedrooms; the main hall; balconies; baths; and the ‘lottery’ area where ostraca bearing 11 names were found, including the name ‘Benyair’. Most likely these were the lots drawn for the mass suicide. The Northern Palace Lookout features superb views of the Judean Desert and some of the Roman Camps.
Continuing southward, we arrived at the synagogue, a hall surrounded by stone benches, the area beneath its floor revealing fragments of Deuteronomy and Ezekiel. Close by is the Scroll Casemate where several findings including scrolls, papyri, ostraca, silver shekels, a prayer shawl etc. were uncovered. From the synagogue one proceeds to the Breach Point where the Romans finally entered.
Finally, we headed southwards to the Western Palace that included the royal wing with several rooms, and water and bathing installations, some decorated with mosaic floors. From here, we returned to the starting point – the Snake Path Gate.
Masada isn’t glorified. Nor is it decked up for tourists. It remains the barren, lonely outpost it’s always been.
Ours had been a chatty group. But two hours up here had silenced all trivial talk. As always, Masada’s story had found true listeners!

The Facts

Masada National Park is situated alongside the Dead Sea and not too far from Ein Gedi. There are conducted coach tours that can be pre-booked in all major cities.
The site is open every day from sunrise to sunset. One can climb up or take a cable car. Entrance tickets are available at the site.
Ideally, one needs two hours to discover all the different sites and artifacts.
A sound and light show depicts the life, struggle and heroism of the people of Masada some 1, 900 years ago. The fifty-minute spectacle is held in the open-air theatre facing the Roman ramp on the mountain’s west side. The show is presented in Hebrew, and headphones for simultaneous translation are available.

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

In The Mood For Adventure

-
‘Let’s make India the adventure capital of the world’. That’s the clarion call given by ATOAI (Adventure Tour Operators Association of India), and judging by their strength and commitment, chances are that this will happen. With ‘Emerging Pathways’ as it’s theme, the 13th Annual Convention of ATOAI, held in Kumarakom, Kerala, from September   18 - 21, 2017, attracted some 300 delegates from all over and India, and presented sharp focus on India’s enormous adventure offerings, and the industry that harnesses it. The convention’s agenda included issues such as policy; capacity-creation; responsible tourism; and marketing. The convention was kicked-off with an impressive inauguration led by Mr. Kadagampally Surendran , Honourable Minister of Tourism, Kerala, along with Mr. Satyajeet Rajan, Director General Tourism, Ministry of Tourism, and Dr. Venu V, Principal Secretary Tourism, Kerala. Spear-headed by Capt. Swadesh Kumar , President ATOAI, and his dy...
Read more

Dresden Dream

-
Sailing upstream under the ‘Blue Wonder Bridge’ aboard one of the world’s oldest paddle-steamers, taking in the beauty of the Elbe Valley, was definitely my kind of holiday, I told myself snugly as I settled down on a seat that was strategically placed to provide pristine views. And indeed, the views were pristine. Grand city monuments looked down on expansive green steppes that tapered down to the river on both sides, as we chugged along. It didn’t take me long to realize that they don’t call Dresden the ‘Florence of the Elbe’ for nothing. Set against a scenic background is an inexhaustible potential of art, science, and dynamic industry; reason enough for ranking the city as the ninth largest international tourist centre. It is one big panorama, that makes for one big adventure. Their domes and steeples piercing the sky, imposing old structures greet one at every turn. And the first timer’s first impression is shaped by the skilled architecture that’s created a f...
Read more

Biarritz: Balancing Basque Headiness

-
A silver necklace of sand along the blue of the ocean, it does what it was always meant to do. Bask in the bright sunshine and unfold its myriad charms. There is a certain savoir foire in this town that begins where the Atlantic Ocean ends. To say that it’s a rather special place is to state the obvious, but it is special. Biarritz was made for holidays! It was the whales and not the elegant 19 th Century ladies who were the first sea-bathers here. A tiny fishing port in the Middle - Ages, it saw dramatic change with the new craze for sea bathing. The Empress Eugenie exalted the town, turning it into Europe’s most fashionable resort. Converging here were the crowned heads of the entire continent, to throw themselves into the waves and into an endless round of sophisticated soirees, romantic promenades and glittering balls.  Following them were the stars of the arts and high society who played hard on the green grass of the golf courses and the green baize of the gam...
Read more

The Westin Kolkata Rajarhat

-
By Inder Raj Ahluwalia A mere 8 Kms from the Kolkata Airport, in close proximity to the International Convention Centre, Eco Park and the business hub of Salt Lake & Rajarhat, The Westin Kolkata Rajarhat has established itself as a pivotal oasis of service and comfort. A Different ‘Feeling’ By all accounts, this is a hotel with a ‘difference’ as discerning guests learn to their delight. Checking in at the hotel brings quick rewards. The focus on wellness means guests have a choice to be pampered with an invigorating massage at the Heavenly Spa by Westin, indulge in Westin Workout facilities, or just enjoy a refreshing dip in the outdoor pool. It’s all nice and easy and its all available every day, round the year. Rooms With A View 304 elegantly appointed, spacious guest rooms and suites providing a panoramic view of the city, ensures all guests have the proverbial ‘roof above their head’.  With 27,000 square feet of state – of –the - art banqueting and c...
Read more

The Kikar Lodge

-
  By Inder Raj Ahluwalia Food tasty enough to drive a dieter up the wall; comfort levels you normally labour to seek; service that’s a mere whisper away; and an ambience that slowly but surely gets hold of your imagination.   It’s the kind of indulgence you don’t find easily, but can get very used to. I don’t mind admitting that the couple of days we spent there were a blur of sheer indulgence and epicurean delights. The fact is that The Kikar Lodge is a world apart. 1,800 acres of scrub, shrub, forests, hills, escarpments and valleys ensure you don’t get claustrophobic in a hurry, and can stretch your legs with gay abandon. The lodge itself is also a sprawling affair with its rooms and suites overlooking the swimming pools, lake and forest. The Pheasant’s Nest is what they call the simply-appointed but vast restaurant that dishes out superb food; The Den is where you can sit in a cosy environment and gaze at prints and photos that line the walls; while The Watering Hole i...
Read more

OMAN SPECIAL

-
by Inder Raj Ahluwalia If you’ve been waiting to experience the delights of the Arabian Nights, just cast a glance at Oman. Uninterrupted sunshine bathes a unique blend of magnificent Arabian heritage. And welcoming one is tradition, hospitality, discovery and adventure. Not only will it fulfill your fantasies, you’ll come away relishing the entire experience. SHOP TILL YOU DROP: For a taste of genuine local flavor, visit Muscat’s Muttarah, a busy commercial centre renowned for its cornice, girdle- shaped promenade, bay and harbour with romantic old dhows and visiting cruise ships and naval vessels. Lining the promenade are offices, shops, cafes, trading-houses and souks, notably the Muttarah Souk with some shops the size of a small lounge, others no bigger than a walk-in closet. Meander through the maze of this market souk with its seemingly endless corridors of little shops, wade through stalls of vegetables and dates, and see the day’s catch on display in the busy fish souk. I...
Read more
-
Regensburg Rejuvenation  By Inder Raj Ahluwalia Take a pause before you take a bow. Let the picture sink in slowly, or else it will be wasted. That’s the kind of place it is. Smart shops featuring designer labels peer out of the gothic vaults and narrow medieval alleys, while cafes and restaurants proliferate all over town, especially along the fast-flowing Danube. At the end of it all one is left marveling at the depth of quality retained in such a small urban area. There’s no ambiguity here. It didn’t take me long to get a sense of the quality that defines the city. It’s a centre of history and beauty. From picturesque old alleys you step out into wide streets and squares flanked by splendid castles and patrician palaces that bear witness to almost a thousand years of history. You stroll along the river’s banks and onto the two islands in the river, and gaze at the pretty skyline. Not surprisingly, tourists flock here from the world over, and shopping, dining-out, and old-fashion...
Read more

Simply Stonehenge!

-
In a way, it turned out to be exactly as advertised. Grim, sinister, hauntingly scenic, it loomed up on the horizon, squatting on a gently rolling hill, waiting to tell its story. As if by design, we got the ‘perfect’ backdrop. It was cold and gray, with a fine drizzle and just a hint of sleet. And the wind was the way winds often tend to be. Cruel! I’m convinced that much of the site’s charm stems from its complete isolation, so loaded with suggestion.   And its strong, indelible historical link with harsh, dark days far gone by, when primitive man strove to sustain himself in difficult conditions.   The topography and setting could well be the prop for a Shakespearean tragedy. The monument squats all by itself- a bit awkwardly I think - on the top of a gentle incline, commanding fine views of the valleys and meadows of Wiltshire downland.   Mysterious and desolate,   it reveals the remains of a prehistoric monument that wa...
Read more

‘Kuch Kuch' Kaohsiung

-
It was a quiet, no-fuss entry into a quiet, no-fuss city! I’d arrived from Taipei, courtesy the Taiwan High Speed Rail, and the 96 – minute ride – with a stop at Taichung – was ‘smooth as flowers’. The High Speed Rail network is a marvel of Taiwan’s engineering prowess, and the super-fast trains literally glide across the country. My brief visit made one thing amply clear. Kaohsiung is a city of substance. My hotel,  The Splendor Kaohsiung,  provided a perfect setting. Taiwan’s highest building until overtaken by Taipei 101, the hotel is still the highest in the country, and the view from its Tuntex 85 Skytower is truly stunning. While three corners focus on the sprawling city, one presents a pristine view of the calm, pale blue sea and Kao Port. The Skytower’s got it all – telescopes, seating, signages, and a refreshment counter. All I had to do was get into a special elevator to be whisked up for the visual treats. My city exploration was a continuation of the treat....
Read more