Bendigo: After The Gold Rush

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It's easy street in more ways than one.

Lazy weekends starting with the aroma of freshly-brewed coffee and croissants over the Sunday papers at a downtown café, followed by a stroll under clear blue skies along one of Australia’s finest Victorian era boulevards. Then seeing pristine, grand local architecture; foraying into Australia’s best regional art gallery; browsing through antique stores; and finally squaring up before a lip-smacking meal.

If it all sounds too good to be true, just blame it on Margaret Kennedy, a young lady who back in 1851 discovered gold here for the first time, sparking a gold rush to Central Victoria that never ceased. Yes, blame it on Margaret.

Greed, and more greed. That’s what it was. If gold’s magnetic pull attracted people here in the first place, gold also kept them here, dreaming their dreams and living out their ‘boom and bust’ fantasies. And it was gold that created local legends. They came from far and near, driven with hope, and staying on with hope. On this hope, a town was built. And it survived the decline of the gold rush and continued to flourish. With its unique character and rustic ambience it offers riches to delight the senses, tempt the palette, and keep spirits up. A  ‘gold-class’ story if ever there was one.

The truth is that life’s passed Bendigo by. The diggers of old have been replaced by tourists seeking old time romance. What awaits you is a smart, elegant town, its streets, boulevards and gardens planned with a ‘grand city’ vision and master-plan.

It doesn’t take me long to imbibe the local mood, and this was no exception, my hotel serving as a perfect curtain raiser. With its stately building and distinct character, establishments don’t come any grander than the Shamrock Hotel, justifiably a notable institution in its own right.   Grand old banister stairs lead you through carpeted corridors to large guestrooms with high ceilings; period furniture; and frontal main-street views.

I swung into the thick of things. The afternoon well spent taking in grand, stylish buildings like the imposing-looking Law Courts and the former Post Office - now the grandest Visitor Information Centre in Australia; and I nosed-in to the shopping precinct where things were typically abuzz with dozens of roomy, airy, informal boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs, and little sidewalk cafes,

All it takes is a stroll along the View Street Arts Precinct to get a close-up, personal feel of local culture.  Join the stream of tourists and stop by at ‘must-sees’ like the famous Art Gallery with its superb collection of Australian and European paintings, and the equally celebrated historic Bendigo Regional Arts Centre that’s made waves.

To treat your taste buds to some real indulgence, hit Bull Street precinct. Swarming with hotels, restaurants and bistros, it is the place to gorumandise.   It takes a few short walking forays to see and savour the town’s riches. I swept past the magnificent Sacred Heart Cathedral and on into the glorious Pall Mall. With its decorative Alexandra Fountain as a focus, Pall Mall is among Australia’s most beautiful Victorian Era streetscapes. Turn anywhere, and you’re overwhelmed by the opulent gold rush architecture that titled Bendigo ‘the jewel in the Empire’s far-flung colonial crown.’ Culinary delights abound at the ‘Paris end’ of the Mall, with freshly brewed coffee and croissants at a sidewalk café; informal meals in friendly wine bars; al fresco dining on the piazza; or the elegance of fine dining in a beautifully restored banking chamber. It’s a question of style, and they’ve got it.

The wide streets beckon, and tourists respond to the strong call to walk, thronging the neatly turned out gardens and parks that grace almost every corner. The other great sightseeing option is hitching a ride on the famous vintage ‘talking trams’ that run on the hour from the Central Deborah Tourist Mine.

Muster up the energy to climb up to the lookout tower in Rosalind Park for a truly lasting impression. My reward was a spectacular view of the city over the rooftops to the spire of St. Paul’s Cathedral; the Post Office Clock Tower; the Central Deborah Gold Mine; and the Town Hall.

It’s all about gold. Bendigo’s story is the story of gold. The city was built on gold and gold gave it its origin, strength and sustenance for generations, and it is gold that is its enduring legend and character.  And nothing captures this spirit and character better than the Central Deborah Gold Mine, its old mine-complex a major tourist attraction today. The once busy mines now welcome and charm visitors with the intricacies of their trade. Tourism has become a mine by itself.

Hard-hat over a turban! Well, why not! I managed it with aplomb and descended 61 metres underground on a guided tour of the mine for a close look at the world of miners. Into the huge mine we burrowed, along seemingly endless ‘corridors’, braving the dark, dank, and scary surroundings. It was all very interesting, especially the bit about dynamiting and the havoc it can cause underground. And for good measure, our guide laughingly told us about the number of tourists ‘lost by fall’. I did say they welcome and charm visitors with the intricacies of their trade, didn’t I?

The faint-hearted who chicken out of descending into deep mines and their related underground adventures, can save face by taking a vintage double decker bus or tram tour of the mine complex, with guides keeping up a running commentary about the marvels of gold and the mavericks who lived and died for it. 

To say that Bendigo is charming is to put it mildly. Though the town is picky enough, it’s got a rough-edge flavour that’s made it laid-back even by Aussie standards.

Quite infectious and quite endearing!


Travel Facts


Bendigo is best accessed via Melbourne, and is a two-hour drive.

Local accommodation comprises a mix of deluxe, standard, and budget hotels and also camping facilities.

A fondness for good food has spawned several quality eateries that serve everything from pure vegetarian to international dishes and Australian cuisine. Select menus also feature ‘exotic’ dishes such as crocodile, snake, and octopus.

Located smack in the town centre, the tourist office is generous with disbursing relevant information and literature, and helpful sightseeing tips.

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